Not the most comfortable aerodynamic position
Whatever type of cycling you do, it’s good to try an increase the efficiency of your cycling so you will go faster for the same effort. If you are a regular cyclist, you may do most of these already. But, looking at beginner cyclists, you can often see how much energy they waste.
1. Get right saddle height and position on the bike.
It is worth spending time to find best saddle height. I started off by measuring leg, and using a formula *1.09 to get saddle height. Formulas aren’t necessarily perfect for everyone, but they are a good starting point. Once you have correct saddle height, that feels correct, make sure you stick to it, even if changing bikes. If the saddle height is too high or too low, you will lose efficiency and possibly cause injury. Correct saddle height
- If you are too high, you will be stretching on every stroke and possibly even swaying.
- If you are too low, there will be a big angle. If the saddle is too low, you will find raising the saddle increases your power output.
2. Aerodynamics.
Aero drag is the biggest factor which will slow you down. If you are a leisure cyclist, you don’t have to go to extremes of getting all the aero gear; but, maybe reducing your handlebar height by 2cm will not compromise comfort but will significantly, save aero drag; it is worth trying anyway. Also make sure clothing is tight fitting and you minimise things sticking out of your bike. Even using drop handlebars can significantly increase aerodynamics. See: Improving aerodynamics whilst cycling
3. Body Still
The most efficient pedalling technique is to keep the upper body still and generate the power from the movement of your legs. Ideally, you should feel your legs are like two pistons, going up and down in a straight motion. Avoid legs splaying out to the side. When people are tired, they often start moving their upper body, to try and generate more momentum (this might be done subconsciously). However, swaying the body is an inefficient use of energy.
4. Pedalling action
Pedal all the way through a pedal stroke, don’t just pedal down, but keep the pressure on the upward stroke. For this you will need toeclips or clipless pedals. See: tips for better pedalling action. Also concentrate on keeping the pedalling action straight to avoid bowed legs.
5. Remain seated whilst climbing
Getting out of the saddle is a way to increase power, but, actually, you’re speed often falls. It is more efficient to sit in the saddle. Use lower gears and maintain a high cadence, rather than getting out of the saddle. This does not mean you always have to remain in saddle, on very steep climbs it is advisable to get out of the saddle. Also, sometimes on long climbs, it is good to break up the climb by sometimes getting out of the saddle. This gives some muscles a rest. Tips for climbing
6. Make use of any shelter
Riding close behind another cyclist is a great way to save energy. Practise riding in groups so you can safely follow closely behind others. Even if you are on your own, you may gain a little more shelter from riding close to a hedge rather than in middle of road.
7. Choose Best Line.
Anticipate potholes and rough sections of the road; if you pick out the smooth sections of the road it will make cycling easier. You will need to anticipate these changes, it can be dangerous to swerve out at the last minute.
8. Anticipate Braking.
When possible I try to minimise braking. For example, if I see a sharp corner I may sit upright and freewheel rather than brake at the last moment. Learning how to descend faster, will also save energy. If you are on a hilly road, it is worth pedalling hard on the descent to be able to gain momentum to climb the ascent on the other side. If you freewheel down the descent, you will need more energy to climb the ascent with less momentum. See: Tips for fast descending
9. Right Tyre Pressure.
Perhaps an obvious measure, but, if you look at commuters, a majority seem to be riding with nearly flat tyres. (tyre pressure for bikes)
10. Change Chain regularly.
This is something club cyclists are reluctant to do. We often wait until everything needs changing – cassette, chain and chain ring. However, a worn chain can lose up to 17% of power transfer. Why spend £2,000 on a bike, when we are too tight to pay £16 on a new chain every 1,000 miles? see: How often to change the chain
11. Good Cadence
There is a dispute about the optimal cadence, but, many new cyclists get used to riding a very low cadence. It is advisable to practice spinning a higher cadence perhaps 90 rpm, this is a better cadence, especially for long distances.
12. Correct Energy and Water
This is the biggest factor influencing the efficiency of your cycling. We are like an engine, requiring the right amount of fuel and water, but sometimes we try to run the engine on empty. It is easy to become dehydrated or take on insufficient food. It is a mistake that even the top cyclists can make. Keep drinking and eating throughout the ride. Also, don’t forget you are eating for the next day. It is important to take on food after a hard effort so your muscles can rebuild. Just because the body might not feel like eating drinking, doesn’t mean you don’t need to take more on.
see: Food and nutrition for cycling
Constant energy levels – make sure you take the right GI foods at right time (i.e. avoid surges and slumps in blood sugar levels)
Anyone know of other tips for efficient cycling?
Picture top: Sheldon Brown on a tandem