Technique: Just Ride Better! Pt 2

A good all-round mountain bike will do most things really well, but when you start to specialise in a certain discipline, a specialist bike will always fare best.

When downhill (DH) racing started, there weren’t really specific bikes for it – some riders would lower their seats, but that would be it. It’s a different game now, with riders tackling rocks the size of TVs, huge jumps and punishing drops, the bikes have to be very strong, yet still light and efficient to pedal.

Even so, that won’t count for much if the bike isn’t set up properly. The same goes for four-cross (4X) racing and slopestyle. You could have fun on any old bike with your eyes half shut, but setting your bike up correctly will help you ride better and develop your skills more quickly.

This month, we’re looking at downhill bikes and the sort of short-travel bikes that are aimed at 4X, slopestyle and even light downhill riding. We’ll show you how to set your bike up right, and the techniques you should work on to improve at both disciplines.

On the bike

1. The scrub

This may be one of the more fashionable moves, but it certainly has its place, especially on hipped jumps. As you come up to the take-off, lower your inside elbow and lay the bike down. As you take off you'll fly slightly sideways and stay low to the ground.

2. Wallride

Not so common at races, but slopestyle events always have them, and most trail centres now have wallrides to practise on. The key is carving a shape on them. Aim to pull up on to the wall at a rough 10 or 2 o’clock trajectory, depending on which direction you’re travelling in. Visualise riding the wall as if it’s a steep berm. If you’re too upright you’ll slide down it – hitting it harder will help you get the right angle.

3. Stay low

Jumps are getting bigger and more common in races, so if you do get kicked into the air by one you need to get back to terra firma as quickly as possible. If you want to stay fast, stay low as you go over the jump. stand tall on the take-off transition and let the bike come up towards you as you take-off. When you’re in the air, start to push against the bike to resist it coming up any more, and to initiate landing as soon as possible.

4. Berms

Berms (banked corners) need to be ridden hard to get the best out of them. In 4X, you need to be able to rail and square them. To square a berm, approach inside of the apex, aim about halfway through the berm, and turn as hard as possible when on it. It’s a good way of securing a position if you’re chasing a rider. To rail a berm use the whole curve of the berm for as long as possible, straightening out the turn for speed.

5. Getting air

Sometimes it’s just a laugh to head out and hit some jumps. start by rolling over a table top jump and learning the kick of the transition; then gradually build your speed and how much you pull up until you’re clearing the jump. Once you’ve dialled that, practise throwing your bike around in the air using your hips and body weight – being able to pick up and ‘place’ the bike is a valuable skill.

6. Know your width

Skimming trees with your bars and elbows can slow you down or even end your run if you hit them hard. Find a section with some tight lines between trees or other obstacles and see how close you get as you ride through it. Try getting a friend to video you. You may find you have lots of breathing room and could tighten up your lines, or you might find you’re cutting it fine. Either way, make sure you know your limit.

7. Squashing a jump

4X racing is all about getting the power on the ground. Unless it’s a huge one that warrants going massive, suck up jumps as much as possible. As you come up the transition, stay as low as possible and absorb the lip. As the bike becomes airborne, stand tall on the bike, ready to push it straight back down into the landing.

8. Landing on the brakes

Quite often you’ll land from a drop and will have to make a turn straight away or have to hit the brakes. Learn to land on the brakes – the bike has maximum traction when compressing into the ground, so the action of landing can be used to scrub off loads of speed, very quickly. This doesn’t mean landing with the brakes locked from a flat-out landing.

9. Roots

The key to riding roots is attacking. If you shy away from them, they’ll have you for breakfast – especially wet ones. If you ride half-heartedly, you’ll be slip-sliding your way along. Instead hit roots as square-on as possible. With any roots that could throw you off-line, either hop over them or unweight your bike as you hit them.

10. Ducking and diving

Downhill riding is all about co-ordination – look where you want to go and your body will follow. Concentrate on where you want to go, rather than on the stuff that’s bothering you, and relax your body. Stay loose and you’ll be surprised how fluid you can be.

11. Flat turns

You’ll come across flat turns whatever style riding you do, but short-travel rigs can get a little skippy and wild in the turns. don’t fight it, let the rear end step out. Weight the front of the bike, and even if the rear slides, you’ll still be able to steer. Perfecting flat turns is hard because they’re always different, but practising on wet, dusty, loose, grippy and rough ground will help you develop the skill you need.

12. The rough stuff

Downhill bikes roll amazingly well through virtually anything. Learn to pick your lines and stick to them. There’s always a smoother line, but often the rougher line is the faster line, so try the rougher lines and see how much time they save you. Take a second look at the sections that faze you and ride them at different speeds to find out how hard you can hit a rough section before things get out of shape.

13. Off camber

The first rule of off-camber terrain is ‘mind over matter’. Spot your exit point and focus on it. Don’t be nervous over the off-camber stuff or you’ll be bouncing off trees like a bumblebee. Keep your weight on the tyres to force them to cut into the ground to keep you upright. Get your outside foot down and put all your weight on it. This will position you into the camber correctly.

Bike Setup

Setting your bike up correctly is essential. Your local bike shop will be able to help you make the finer adjustments to suit your riding needs, but our guide will point out what you need to do to get ready to shred – fast.

Downhill bikes: Downhill bikes are made to do a specific job as fast and efficiently as possible. They are typically long and low with very slack angles. They can have anything from 7 to 10in of rear travel, and 7 to 8in up front. They’re the Baja buggies of the bike world, perfect for gravity fuelled sessions, and getting yours set up right will improve your riding no end.

14. Tyres

Large volume tyres offer a large contact area, and soft compound, slow rebound rubber allows the tyre to deform, increasing grip. In dry conditions, choose a shallower tread that will roll fast. In the wet, look for an open, deep tread with knobbles that will cut through the mud and clear quickly. Tyre pressure is another massive factor – harder will roll faster, but will have less grip. Experiment between 25 and 28psi.

15. Disc size

Bigger discs are essential on DH bikes. On shorter and steeper courses, you’ll use the front brake a lot to control speed, but on faster and longer courses you’ll use the back brake more than you realise to scrub speed. This can cook your brake pads and glaze them over, so choose a bigger disc to increase power.

16. Pedals

If you prefer clipped pedals, look for ones with a decent cage – CrankBrothers Mallets or Shimano M545s are ideal. Make sure your shoe has a sturdy feel – try Shimano’s DX or SixSixOne's Filter. Avoid race-style shoes. If you ride flat pedals, find the best pedals for your feet – they should be fairly thin with a big platform. Burgtecs are ideal if you have big feet and a deep wallet, and FiveTens are the current shoe of choice.

17. Chainguide

A decent enclosed chainguide is essential. If your bike has a low bottom bracket height, opt for one with full ring protection. The SRS+ guide from e*thirteen on the bike pictured above is strong yet lightweight.

18. Bar setup

Handlebar choice is down to personal preference, but getting your weight on the front end will help increase traction and grip, so low bars will help. The bike’s front end is already higher than usual thanks to its big fork, so you can go lower than you think with bars. Wide bars increase stability and control at speed and through the rough, but they’re not good on tight tracks and can slow your handling down.

19. Suspension setup

The long-travel suspension needs to track the terrain to offer traction and to be able to get the power down over rough ground, but too soft means a potentially wallowy ride. When you’re in your full riding kit, aim for a quarter to a third of the available travel as sag. If you run the bike on the softer side, low speed compression damping will help keep the bike up in the travel, especially under braking and when pedalling. Given the nature of DH, you’ll hit unexpected obstacles, and you don’t want to be kicked over the bars, so opt for a little more rebound damping than on other bikes – but not so much that the bike packs down on repeated hits.

20. Saddle height

Despite being aimed down steep and gnarly chutes, downhill bikes still have to be pedalled. Find a happy medium for your saddle, between ‘out the way’ and ‘pedalable’. Take a look at pro racers’ bikes, and you’ll notice their saddles creeping higher as course times get closer between riders.

4X/slopestyle bikes: Full-suspension is becoming more and more popular among 4X and slopestyle riders. For 4X, rear suspension improves traction and offers more control on courses with high-speed sections, rock gardens and huge jumps. For slopestyle, it will take the sting out and the bike won’t break at the first sign of trouble. This new breed of hardcore, short-travel bikes is also ideal for short downhill runs, and they’re becoming increasingly useful for more riders.

21. Tyres

Find a happy medium between grip and rolling resistance. Aggressive tread patterns work well in most conditions, but sometimes a semi-slick rear tyre will grip just enough, but roll immensly fast.

22. Fork travel

You can tune the feeling of the bike by adjusting fork travel. Less travel will give you a steeper head angle and a slightly lower bottom bracket (BB). A longer travel setting will relax the head angle and steering, and raise the BB slightly. An adjustable fork will allow you to get the most out of this kind of bike.

23. Cockpit

Being able to adjust your position is useful if you’re playing with your travel settings. A few spacers under your stem can be stacked on top to lower the bars if, for example, you were raising the fork height for a rough track, but didn’t want the bars any higher. Bars slightly wider than the stock 711mm can be handy for taller riders because they lower your weight on the bike and stabilise handling, but the fast natured handling of these bikes can be ruined if you’re running overly wide bars.

24. Close ratio block

Slopestyle riders don’t need many gears, so a nice tight chain will keep the bike quiet. 4X riders need to get out the gate quick, and so need a spread of gears for maximum torque – regular mountain bike cassettes are too varied in the gearing. Road cassettes have a far closer ratio, so make gear changing cleaner and gearing better for sprinting.

25. Pedals

4X racers tend to use SPD pedals for maximum acceleration and slopestyle/freeriders often go for fl at pedals for freedom on the bike – whether that’s for pulling  big tricks or being able to bail out at will.

26. Suspension setup

Firmer seems to be better. 4X needs maximum pedalling power distributed to the ground, and slopestylers won’t want wallowy suspension ruining the pop off lips. Quicker rebound up front on a 4X bike gives extra grip, and the same out back can increase pop off lips. If you want to minimise these things, choose a slower rebound setting.

27. Saddle height

It’s all about manoeuvrability, so get the saddle out the way for dynamic moves. Many riders point the nose of their saddles up so they have something to pinch between their knees for stability in the air and through the rough stuff.

Off the bike

Much of being good on a bike is preparing off the bike. You should eat well and look after your body. For downhill and 4X riding, flexibility and power are essential.

28. Stay flexible

Stretching is the key here, but taking classes in yoga or pilates is great for core strength, staying supple and resisting injury. Muscle is basically a spring that recoils, so the looser and more flexible it is, the better.

29. Cross-training

To help develop your recovery and sprint performance, try looking at other sports. Circuit training is a great option for improving recovery, and rowing machines build staying power – great for both DH and 4X. Working out in a gym is also helpful because you can work on specifi c areas you need for riding.

30. Food & drink

To build power in your muscles, taking on protein is essential. Whey powder, an ingredient found in many protein drinks is great for this. For strength, go for red meat. It’s naturally high in protein and creatine, which are important for building muscle. Carbohydrates in pasta, rice and potatoes are great for fuelling up before exercise.

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Technique: Just ride better! pt 1

Bikes these days are so good, and so much fun to ride, that it’s easy to overlook the things that make you a better rider. It’s also easy to let suspension camouflage bad technique and poorly set up bikes, and easy to let trail centres lead you along without you having to really test yourself on the rollercoaster effect they offer.

Instead of heading out for a ride without thinking, consider the finer – yet surprisingly simple – techniques that make you a better rider. Bike setup can also help – a correctly sprung and set up bike will do your technique wonders, whereas a bike that’s not right could be a hindrance.

This month, we’re looking at all-mountain and freeride bikes. They share many similarities in their appearances and the way they can be ridden. And there are a few things you can do with both that will really make you a better rider, both faster and more capable when the going gets steep and technical.

1. Attack off-camber

It's easy to shy away from off-camber sections, but if you hunt out a section and ride it till you find your limits, you’ll be astonished at the traction you can find. Get your outside pedal down and put your weight on it heavily to cut the shoulder tread of your tyre into the ground to find more grip.

2. Attack berms

Berms aren't there to make cornering easier – they're there to make it faster. Longer berms need to be railed, and tighter berms should be attacked. Come in with less speed and push your weight into the berm through your feet – this pushes you out ready to get back on the gas.

3. Gap jumps

Even a small gap that you need to jump can be a real mental block for some people. The only way to get over it is by getting out there and trying it. Start small and build up – you’ll soon work out how fast you need to go in order to clear a gap, and will be able to apply it to any riding out on the trails. Being able to guess a gap is essential to being able to ride uneven and challenging terrain fast.

4. Drifting

Sliding on mud is inevitable – so don't fight it. Instead, stay relaxed and nine times out of 10 your wheel will find traction again, as long as you're on a good line. Find a slippery patch and practise getting loose.

5. Drops

At first the sensation of dropping can feel odd, but you should make an effort to get used to it because it comes in handy in extreme situations. Gauge your speed, lean back and pull up. Try to land both wheels together and use your whole body to absorb the shock when you touch down.

6. Pre jumping

For fast trail riding, you need to be able to put the bike where you want it and prevent accidental airtime, and pre-jumping is a good way to do this. Over-jumping a big bank could spell catastrophe, so pull a decent sized bunnyhop before a transition and aim to land in the transition. This will also boost your speed exiting the bank.

7. Get air

Head to a play spot and practise jumping. Drop your seat a little, focus on your landing and run-out areas, and stay relaxed and go with the flow. Learn how your bike feels when you jump it – and learn how it feels when you get airborne accidentally – that way you’ll be able to deal with it on the trail.

8. Nosedive

The best way to gain speed from a trail is to pump your bike into a transition when landing. Your front end falls naturally when airborne, so the key is not to fight it – extend your arms and aim to meet with the landing. Mimic the shape a dolphin makes as it crests a wave. It will feel scary at first, but once you get used to it it’ll be fine.

9. North Shore

North Shore riding is very good for building balance and increasing confidence. Find the nearest spot to you and practise riding it – it’ll make you more aware of the length of your bike, its turning circle and where vitals like your rear mech and pedals are.

10. Weight the bike into turns

Big bikes need an extra push top get the best out of them. The extra suspension and weight combined with the attack geometry allow you to really fire them through turns. When you hit berms, compress the bike as hard as you can and ricochet off down the trail.

11. Looking ahead

Whatever you're doing, always look ahead – up to 50ft down the trail – not at obstacles immediately ahead of you. That way, by the time you hit that dodgy patch you spotted, you should already be looking way down the trail and trusting your body language to push you through.

12. Ride big terrain

Seek out a good scree slope. Test your nerve, your brakes and your judgment. Finding your comfort zone will make you a better rider in all situations – on steep scree slopes you can always get off the back of the bike if it's not going well.

Bike setup

Setting your bike up correctly is essential. Your local bike shop will be able to help you make the finer adjustments to suit your riding needs, but our guide will point out what you need to do to get ready to shred – fast.

All-mountain

All-mountain bikes typically have 120-150mm of suspension travel front and rear, and need to be set up to allow efficient climbing and unhindered descending.

13. Stem length

Shortening your stem increases steering response and control. Between 60 and 80mm will be best, depending on your height and top tube length. The shorter you go the quicker the handling – but climbing suffers because this reduces the weight on the front of your bike.

14. Brake lever position

As a rule of thumb, your brake levers should line up with your arms when you’re seated. Any lower and they’ll become difficult to reach when descending steep terrain. Too high can strain your wrist. To improve your descending, raise your levers a touch.

15. Front bolt-through

A bolt-through fork will increase your stability and handling on aggressive terrain. If your bike doesn’t use a bolt-through front end with a long-travel fork, you could be missing out on hammertime.

16. Suspension setup

Aim for 25-30 percent of the available travel as sag. Less sag will increase your performance uphill and in smoother situations. More than that offers a plusher ride, but will slow you down unless it's rough out there.

17. Saddle position

Avoid putting your saddle too far back, because this can put your weight too close to the rear wheel axle, which makes climbing hard work, and tires your legs quicker. If you feel you need to put your saddle far back on the rails, it's possible your frame is too short for you.

18. Tyre combos

Grip and rolling resistance are key on all-mountain bikes. A slightly gnarlier front tyre will improve control in turns and when braking on descents. Go for a rear tyre with less central tread, but with a shoulder that will dig in – 2.10-2.4in tyres are the best size options for a fast ride on varied terrain.

19. SPD pedals and shoes

Choose SPD-type pedals. You can pull up on the pedals to get uphill more efficiently. Downhill they help you loft the bike over rough patches.

20. Disc size

On lighter bikes, most of the braking is done on the front end, so choose a bigger disc up front, such as a 185mm disc. This works well with a 160mm outb ack, and gives even braking power.

A classic all-mountain bike – Turner's 5 Spot

Freeride

Freeride bikes are essentially longer-travel versions of all-mountainbikes. They’re stronger, heavier and have slacker geometry to increase control in steep and technical scenarios

21. Nose up on saddle and low position

For more control on steep downhills, pop the nose of the saddle up to pinch between your knees. It’ll help you feel more confident too.

22. Bar width

A wider handlebar can improve your performance in demanding conditions because your weight is spread more evenly across your bike – but don’t go too wide for your height. Shorter riders will benefit from bars between 711 and 750mm wide, whereas riders over 6ft can make the most of bars up to 800mm wide. If the trail is tight and tree-infested, narrower bars will help.

23. Bashring

Ditch your outer chainring in favour of a bashring. You’ll be able to climb easily with the inner and middlering, and the bashring will fend off logs and rocks.

24. Flat pedals

Flat pedals give the benefit of not being attached to the bike, so if you need to jump ship because of a particularly nasty obstacle, you can. They also make dabbing a foot on turns easier.

25. Sticky rubber

If you ride flat pedals, invest in some decent shoes, such as a pair of FiveTens that use their Stealth sticky rubber soles. Their leech like surface gives surefooted grip and is predictably safe in rough conditions.

26. Burly tyres

Look for big volume tyres with a deep tread and pronounced shoulder to give you maximum control. If you’re riding more gravity-based trails, look for soft compound rubber to increase grip even more. Harder rubber rolls faster, but has less grip.

A typical freeride bike – the Beefcake from German brand Rose

Off the bike

Much of being good on a bike is preparing off the bike. You should eat well and look after your body. For all-mountain and freeride riding, you need good endurance strength too.

27. Eating

Carbohydrates are a great fuel for riding, and proteins really help replenish your muscles afterwards. Look for carbs in jacket potatoes, pasta and rice, and protein in lean steak and eggs. Fatty acids like Omega 3, found in oily fish such as mackerel are also good for you.

28. Drinking

Water is the most important thing for keeping you hydrated and can resist cramping and the dreaded ‘bonk’. Keep plenty of water on board but also try some isotonic drinks – they’re filled with essential salts and sugar to replenish what you use when riding.

29. Stretching

Keeping your body flexible is a must – avoid muscle knots and tightness by stretching fully before and after you ride. When you’ve been riding for long distances, pay particular attention to stretching your hamstrings, quads, calf muscles and lower back.

30. Resting

Allowing the body to recuperate is often overlooked yet one of the most important elements that should be included into any exercise regime. It allows muscle tissue to repair and should never be considered a waste of time.

Next installment: Downhill bikes and short-travel 4X rigs.

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