36FLOAT RC2

Note: Some photos may not reflect actual model of fork

Disassembly

To remove the 36 Topcap:

1. Using a hex key wrench, remove the hex key on top of the red rebound knob.
   
   
2. Remove the rebound knob by lifting it.
   
   
3. Unscrew—but do not remove—the damper topcap with a 32 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats. You may need to grind down the socket so that it properly grips the wrench flats on the topcap.
   
   
4. Leave the topcap assembly on. Secure your fork so that the fluid inside of the fork does not spill out.
   • After loosening the 36 Topcap assembly, you are now ready to remove the bottom nut on the damper, which will allow you to fully remove the 36 R/RC2 Damper assembly from the lower leg assembly.
   • Place an oil pan underneath the fork before loosening the bottom nut.
   • Make sure the topcap assembly is screwed in a few turns, since you will need to turn the fork upside-down to access the bottom nut. You will not want suspension fluid spilling all over your new Hush Puppies.

To remove the 36 Damper:

1. Remove the high- and low-speed compression knobs.
2. Using a 15 mm socket, remove the bottom nut.
   
   
3. Screw the bottom nut back on two full turns. Screw the black protective cap onto the bottom nut. Hold a screwdriver between the bottom nut and the bottom of the lower leg to keep the bottom from spinning as you screw the black protective cap on about 2 full turns.
   
   
4. Using a plastic faced hammer, gently strike the bottom nut to release the damper assembly. Gently strike the black protective cap to release the damper assembly.
   
   
5. Holding the fork over an oil pan, remove the bottom nut. If the crush washer isn't attached to the nut, check the bottom of the lower leg; it might be stuck there. Suspension fluid should flow out.
   
   
6. Turn the fork right-side up and then remove the topcap.

   Note: You do not need to remove your lower leg assembly at this point.

   
   
7. Pull up on the topcap and remove the 36 Damper assembly.
   
   

To remove the 36 FLOAT Air Topcap:

1. Remove the aircap.

   Note: The pictures here show a 32MM air fork, but this procedure also apply to a 36 FLOAT.

   
   
2. While holding a rag over the topcap assembly, depress the Schrader valve to release air pressure.
   
   
3. Unscrew—but do not remove—the damper topcap with a 32 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats. You may need to grind down the socket so that it properly grips the wrench flats on the topcap.
   
   
4. Leave the topcap assembly on. Secure your fork so that the fluid inside of the fork does not spill out.
   • After loosening the air topcap, you are now ready to remove the bottom nut on the lower leg, which will allow you to fully remove the air spring assembly from the lower leg.
   • Place an oil pan underneath the fork before loosening the bottom nut.
   • Make sure the air topcap is screwed in a few turns since you will need to turn the fork upside-down for better access to the bottom nut.

To remove the 36 FLOAT Spring:

1. Using a 10 mm socket, remove the bottom nut. If the washer is not stuck to the bottom of the lower leg, check the inside of the bottom nut and remove it using a dental pick.

   Note: The pictures here show a 32MM air fork, but this procedure also apply to a 36 FLOAT.

   
   
2. Screw the bottom nut back on until it is flush with the end of the air shaft. You should be able to push down on the bottom nut to push up the air shaft plunger.
   
   
3. If you cannot dislodge the damper by pushing down on the bottom nut, dislodge the air shaft by tapping on it with a soft-faced mallet.
   
   
4. Both the damper shaft and air spring shaft should be dislodged from the lower legs, allowing you to remove the lower leg assembly.
   
   
5. If the damper and spring assemblies are still in the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly, they can be removed at this point without issue. Unscrew the topcap assembly from the crown and lift up on the corresponding damper/spring assembly.
6. The upper tubes and steerer tube are pressed into the crown using a one-time press fit assembly. The crown/steerer/upper tube assembly is not a serviceable item; any deformation of this assembly requires replacement.
   
   
   • Drain the lower leg assembly into an oil pan before putting it aside.
   • Clean the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly with parts cleaner.
7. Inspect the assembly for any nicks, cuts, scrapes, scratches or gouges, and replace if necessary.
8. The assemblies that normally prevent the removal of the lower legs should already have been removed.
9. Removal of the lower legs should be done with the fork secured in a bike stand and over an oil pan.

To remove the 36 lower legs:

1. As you make sure the fork is secured in a bike stand or vise, and over an oil pan, turn the fork upside-down.
2. Remove the topcap assemblies from both sides of the fork, and let the oil drain out.
   
   
3. If not already done, remove all base valve bolts and knobs.
4. Gently pull up on the lower legs to fully disengage them from the upper tubes.
   
   

5. Drain any remaining fluid from the lower legs into an oil pan.

To remove the thru-axle:

1. Loosen the four hex bolts on the lower legs using a 5 mm hex key. They do not need to be removed.
   
   
2. Using a 5 mm hex key, unscrew the thru-axle from the right side (rider's perspective) of the lower legs.
   
   
3. Slide the thru-axle out from the lower legs.
   
   
   • After removal of the lower legs, it is a good idea to replace the dust wipers and foam rings.
   • When possible, the bicycle/fork should be stored upside-down to keep the dust wipers and foam rings lubricated.

To remove the seals and dust wipers:

1. Using an open-end wrench, pry up the dust wipers. Be careful not to scratch the ID of the lower legs.
   
   
2. After the dust wipers are removed, the foam rings will be visible. Lift them out of the lower legs. If the rings cannot be located, check under the dust wipers; they might be stuck underneath.
   
   

   You can get a general sense of the condition of the fork by examining the foam rings. Dry foam rings indicate a lack of fluids, or possibly a leak. Dirty foam rings may indicate a faulty dust wiper. In either condition, the anodizing on the upper tubes should be examined. If the anodizing has worn off due to insufficient lubrication, replacement of the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly is imminent.

   After examining the dust wipers and foam rings, they can be discarded and replaced using the following replacement kit:

   FOX 32MM Dust Wiper Kit (FOX P/N: 803-00-124)

   Lower Leg Bushings:

   FOX Racing Shox recommends that you have your bushings serviced at a Factory Authorized Service Center. Refer to http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/service.htm.

   Bottom-out Bumpers:

   Bottom-out bumpers are technically not a serviceable item, so they rarely need to be replaced.

Service

FIT Damper Service

Disassembly

1. At the bottom end of the cartridge, remove the 18 mm bladder cap lock nut. Use a 8 mm box end wrench to hold the compression adjuster shaft feature firmly as you unthread the 18 mm nut. The 18 mm nut may be tight, as blue Loctite is used at the factory during installation. Set the nut aside on clean shop towel. You may need to remove some of the hardened Loctite.
   
   
2. Place a shop towel over the bottom stud bladder end and compress the damper shaft all the way in towards the seal head. This will displace the oil and apply pressure on the bladder and cap. This action will help to pop the bladder and cap up, or even out of the cartridge body.
   
   
3. Try to grip the bladder cap with your fingers and work the cap up and off the stud. Sometimes you will need to gently grip the cap with channel lock pliers to grip and tug the part off; a little wiggle action as you pull also helps.
   
   
4. Occasionally, the bladder cap will dislodge from the bladder. Remove the bladder by gently pulling it out with a plastic dental pick.
   
   
5. Pour as much oil out of the system as you can into a drain pan, and also cycle the damper shaft a few times. This action will purge more oil out of the damper.
   
   
6. Clamp the damper cartridge body into the soft jaw vise using the correct size clamp holes on the shaft clamp (P/N 803-00-084). Unthread the black seal head using a thin style 14 mm open end wrench.

   CAUTION: Do not over-tighten the vise, or damage to the cartridge body will result.

   
   
7. Before you unthread the seal head, hold it over your oil drain pan. Oil is going to flow out of the cartridge immediately when it is opened. Drain as much oil as you can out of the damper shaft assembly, and set it onto clean shop towel.
   
   
8. Inspect the rebound piston and the piston glide ring (pink Z cut) P/N 002-02-011 for excessive wear or damage. Excessive wear on the glide ring may cause a reduction in rebound damping.
   
   
9. Clamp damper cartridge body into the soft jaw vise using correct size clamp holes on shaft clamp. Thread the black seal head with damper shaft back into the cartridge body with 14 mm crow foot and torque wrench torque the seal head to 35 in-lbs.

   CAUTION: Do not overtighten the vise, or damage to the cartridge body will result.

   
   
10. Unclamp damper cartridge and turn it around so that the bladder end of cartridge is up. Re-clamp damper cartridge body into the soft jaw vise using correct size clamp holes on shaft clamp.

    CAUTION: Do not overtighten the vise, or damage to the cartridge body will result.

    
    
11. Pull down top cap toward the floor too fully extend damper shaft.

    CAUTION: Before adding oil make sure that the rebound adjuster knob is fully turned counterclockwise (OUT).

    
    
12. Slowly pour 10 wt. FOX suspension fluid into the cartridge body bladder end, cycling slowly the damper shaft (hold onto topcap). This will draw the oil into the cartridge. Pour more oil in as you cycle the shaft in and out slowly. Make sure to compress the topcap all the way in until it stops; this will purge air out of the hydraulic bottom-out system. Air bubbles will come up through the oil during the filling operation. Slowly cycle damper shaft all the way through full travel about 20 times.
    
    
13. Pull damper shaft towards the ground to the fully extended position. The oil level in the bladder body should be about 2 inches down from the top. It may be necessary to add or subtract some oil to attain the 2-inch oil level.
    
    
14. Let the cartridge sit for about 30 minutes to allow all the air to escape out of the oil.
15. Inspect bladder and cap for cuts, nicks, and burrs (replace as needed with bladder P/N 210-22-106 and cap P/N 210-22-105). Make sure to remove all burrs from bladder cap.
    
    
16. Lightly grease the outer edges as well as the inside edges of the sealing lips of the bladder. Install the inner sealing lip of the bladder onto the inner seal groove of the bladder cap and carefully spin to make sure it is fully engaged. Push from the top of the bladder so that it is not compressed inward and slowly roll the outer sealing lip of the bladder onto the bladder cap.
    
    
    
17. Grip the outside diameter of the top edge of the bladder, and push it outward to ensure you have maximum air volume inside the bladder.
    
    
18. Double-check and make sure that the damper shaft is pulled to the fully extended position, and wrap a shop towel around the outside of the cartridge body top area. This will soak up excess oil as it is purged during the bladder insertion process.
    
    
19. Install the bladder cap assembly into the oil-filled cartridge by slowly pushing it down into the cartridge body bladder cavity. Make sure to push it down all the way. The bladder cap should end up flush to the top of the cartridge body bladder cavity. You can use a socket (e.g., 15 mm) large enough to fit over the damper shaft adjuster rod, to push down on the bladder cap assembly.
    
    
    
20. Clean off excess oil from the cartridge stud threads using cotton tip swaps and isopropyl alcohol. Blow dry after cleaning.
    
    
21. Add three drops of Loctite (Blue Medium) to the threaded stud above the bladder cap's top edge.
    
    
22. Holding the adjuster shaft with a 8 mm closed end wrench, torque the bladder cap nut to 90 in-lbs. using a 14 mm crow foot open end and torque wrench.
    
    
23. Tighten the seal head slightly, but do not torque it down yet. When tightening the seal head, be careful not to pinch the seal head O-ring.
    
    
24. Compress the assembly with your hands. You should feel firm resistance to movement and there should be no play. If air has entered the system, you will feel a little bit of play at the top of the compression stroke. The allowable amount of play is 3 mm. If more play is measured, continue with the next step. Otherwise, skip to step #27.
    
    
25. Remove the seal head and top the cartridge body off with oil.
    
    
26. Slide the seal head all the way to the piston. Insert the piston and seal head assembly into oil. Tighten the seal head slightly, but do not torque it down yet. When tightening the seal head, be careful not to pinch the seal head O-ring. Perform step #24 again.
    
    
27. Using a 14 mm crow foot open end wrench and torque wrench, torque the seal head to 55 in-lbs.
    
    
28. The damper assembly is ready for installation back into your fork.

Assembly

To install the 36 RC2 Damper:

1. Insert the damper assembly into the right upper tube. Make sure the damper shaft protrudes from the bottom of the lower leg.
   
   
2. Screw the damper topcap into the upper tube with a 32 mm 6-point socket and torque to 165 in/lb (18.64 N-m).
   
   
3. Pour 25 cc of FOX 7 wt. suspension fluid in through the bottom hole, into the right lower leg.
   
   
4. Place a new crush washer on the end of the damper shaft.
   
   
5. Screw on the bottom nut. Using a torque wrench and 15 mm socket, torque the bottom nut to 50 in/lb (5.65 N-m).
   
   

To install the 36 Topcap:

1. Place the rebound knob on the topcap assembly. The lever and adjuster shaft are indexed.
   
   
2. Using a 1.3 mm (0.050") hex key wrench, tighten the hex key on top of the rebound knob.
   
   

To install the 36 FLOAT air spring:

1. Grease the threads on the upper tube.

   Note: Some of the pictures here show a 32MM air fork, but the procedures also apply to a 36 FLOAT.

   
   
2. Drop the air spring into the upper tube.
   
   
3. Turn the fork upside-down and pour 25 cc of FOX 7 wt. suspension fluid in through the bottom hole, into the left lower leg.
   
   
4. Push the air shaft down until it protrudes from the bottom of the lower leg. Place a new crush washer on the shaft, then screw the bottom nut onto the shaft. Or, you can place the washer on the bottom nut and screw them on together.
   
   
5. Torque the bottom nut to 50 in/lb (5.65 N-m) using a 10 mm socket and torque wrench.
   
   
6. Turn the fork right-side up and place 5cc of FLOAT Fluid (one pillow pack) into the left upper tube.